How to make a nursery
One of the best and most accurate techniques for regularity and uniformity of growth of the seedlings on the farm or in a family vegetable garden is to start from seedbeds. This technique also requires very low restorations of bankruptcies, production times of the most programmable productions, healthier plants because the growth conditions are more controllable and better control of the weeds. Moreover being able to grow the seedlings in a seedbed in an environment protected from the cold winter you can anticipate the production without having to resort to crops in greenhouses that produce significant negative effects on the environment and man. To make a production that frees us from purchases in the nursery, which obviously cost more, and avoids the sowing in the open field, with the problems outlined above, we can follow the simple techniques that are the basis of the nursery.
In this sheet we see how to create a nursery and, above all, how gradually to acquire an ever increasing professionalism; moreover, the space needed to produce even large quantities of seedlings is very small. To start in this activity, we can simply use a small box in which seeds will germinate or, buy some seed potatoes (like the one in the picture) that are easily found in specialized stores or on the internet. Once the seeding has been identified where the sowing is to be carried out, the suitable substrate must be made. The advice is to mix black, non-acid peat soil with sand (possibly siliceous) in the proportion of 2: 1. Alternatively, you can buy ready-made soil for nursery plants. Once the substrate has been obtained, it must be placed in the seedling, wet and slightly constipated (also by means of a nebulizer), taking care not to completely fill the vain spaces of the seed pan. Once the wet earth layer is ready, the seeds are placed, in a few mm deep snouts (indicatively the depth of sowing must go from a few millimeters to a depth as the size of the seed); at this point it is then covered with a veil of the same soil, it costs slightly the same and is rehumidified as before. To facilitate germination, the seeds can be soaked for 24 hours, so as to soften the tegument; for this technique the chamomile bath can be used. Recall that to germinate the seed needs the ideal temperature. Therefore, for each type of plant it is necessary to know the minimum germination temperature. If we sow tomatoes this is around 25 degrees. This means that the room where we keep the sowing must have these temperatures. Also important is the brightness that must be ensured, without direct rays, in the first phase of vegetation. In low-light conditions the seedlings will tend to grow too long, thin and with light green leaves. If you have used an alveolar seed, the transplant should be done with all the ground bread when the seedlings, in addition to the cotyledonous leaves (those of the real seed), will have emitted the first real leaves. In general this is the best technique, less traumatic and safer as the roots are not disturbed and these have not yet developed too much. The movement operation from the sowing to the full field must be done as follows. At the bottom of each space, the seeders have a small dripping hole. Before transplanting, avoid too much water from the soil that could break up in this operation, with a small stick or with your finger you just need to press this hole from the bottom to the top to get out all the bread of earth containing the seedling. Before transplanting, obviously you have to prepare the soil for transplanting well; provide it with a good quantity of organic substance; even stake it with straws that are your guide for planting. Once planted you must have the foresight to perfectly level the seedlings with the ground floor (neither too deep nor too superficial) and irrigate them gently immediately. At this point the real cultivation begins in the open field.
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